H i n t s  &  T i p s

The #1 key ingredient to a good roof is proper installation. The best roofing materials in the world are worthless if they are installed incorrectly.  Be very careful when choosing a roofing contractor.

• GETTING READY FOR WINTER

• ASPHALT SHINGLES

• BUILT-UP ROOFING

• CHASING LEAKS

• ALGAE DISCOLORATION

The following piece of advice refers to all types of roofing. Never install insulation up against the underside of a wood roof deck. This will expedite deterioration of the deck and cause it to weaken and warp. This will happen in about a five to fifteen year time span depending on your geographical location. The expenses that this will incur are: (1) Redecking your building. These expenses will usually start at $1.50 per square foot and go up from there, depending on the type of wood deck that you use. (2) You'll have to reinsulate the building. Because the insulation was on the backside of the roof deck, when the deck is torn off, the insulation will go with it. (3) You will be reroofing the building prematurely. Insulation installed on the underside of the deck rather than at the ceiling level will not only lead to premature deck deterioration but also to premature roof system deterioration. No roofing manufacturer will warrant roofing materials with insulation installed on the backside of the deck.

Why is it detrimental? Heat absorbed by the roof system gets trapped at the deck level. This heat will cause the decking to warp and, in the case of plywood, the laminates used to hold the plywood layers together will fail.

If there is some information that you need that is not included in these sections, please don't hesitate to email us.

G e t  Y o u r  R o o f  W i n t e r - R e a d y

1. Check all gutters and make sure they’re clean. You may want to consider a gutter guard or leaf covers. This will help keep ice from building up inside the gutter. The extra weight can tear them down.

2. Make sure your gutters are securely fastened.

3. If you have a flat roof with roof drains, make sure the drains are functioning.

4. Check the mortar and brick on your chimneys and call a mason to make any repairs.

5. Check all flashings. Flashings are the metal pieces used to waterproof interruptions in the roof plane such as pipes, chimneys, skylights, etc. If you suspect a deficiency and are unsure about how to fix it, call a roofing contractor. Snow leaks can wreak havoc on a house’s interior during the winter - spending a nickel now and save a dime later, as the adage says.

6. Check all areas of caulking. Touch up any suspected deficiencies.

7. Don’t use a snow-blower on your roof. Snow blowers are dangerous and can also tear up the roof.

8. If you get up on the roof to remove snow with a shovel or similar tool, be careful that you don’t damage the roofing materials.

9. NEVER use an ice pick to remove ice build up.

10. Yes, heat tape works but be careful and buy a high quality product. Heat tapes have been known to catch fire and burn down houses. Also be careful about how you install it. You don’t want to poke a bunch of holes in your roof.

A s p h a l t  S h i n g l e s

1. The roofing materials should be kept dry until installation. If materials are stacked on the ground, the materials should be placed on pallets or other type of raised platform and covered with a weather protective covering.

2. Inspect the bundles for moisture upon delivery. If the bundles are wet, the shingles should be allowed to dry completely before installation. If shingles are installed wet, then problems will occur later on such as blistering, mold, mildew, etc.; all of which expedite roof deterioration.

3. NEVER USE STAPLES! A really good type of nail to use in roofing applications is a "Hot-Dipped Galvanized" nail. This type of nail is dipped in a bath of molten zinc. Do not confuse these nails with "Hot Galvanized (H.G.)" nails which are coated by tumbling them in a mixture of zinc chips inside a hot furnace. A couple of types of nails that aren't recommended are "Electroplated" (A.K.A. Electrogalvanized or E.G.) and "Mechanically-Plated" (A.K.A. Peen-plated or golden-galvanized). These two types rust quickly when exposed to weather and moisture.

4. Two layers of underlayment should be used on slopes less than 4:12.

5. Recommended underlayment nailing patterns.
6. Recommended high wind underlayment nailing patterns.

7. Nails should be long enough to penetrate the wood decking a minimum of 3/4". A general rule of thumb is to use 1-¼" nails in reroof applications when the old roof is torn off and to use 1-½" nails when overlaying the old roof.

8. Use a minimum of four (4) nails per shingle, or six (6) nails per shingle in high wind areas and six (6) nails per shingle on slopes exceeding 12:12, or 12 inches of rise for every 12 inches of vertical "run" (a 45 degree angle).

9. When replacing decking material, it is recommended that it be replaced with half sheets (4'x4'). You want the decking to span 3 rafters. A 4'x4' sheet will span 3 rafters spaced 24 inches apart. Do not "piece" in decking.

10. Use a dense nailing pattern for installing the underlayment. That way, if the shingles blow off, then the felt should still be there to help provide protection. For an example, click here.

11. When placing decking over rafters set on twenty-four inch (24") centers, it is recommended that minimum 5/8" decking be used.

12. When installing shingles on a roof with a slope that is less than 4 in 12 (33%), it is recommended that two (2) layers of number fifteen (#15) asphalt saturated felt underlayment be installed in shingle fashion.

13. Ice and water protection membranes should be installed in regions where the average January temperature is below freezing (32° F, 0° C). The membrane should extend from the bottom edge of the roof, past the interior wall line a minimum of twelve inches (12").

14. It is always a good idea to place an ice and water protection membrane in all valleys.

15. For Starter shingles, you can use 3-tab, self-sealing shingles with the tabs cut off.

16. Always nail shingles ON THE NAIL LINE.

17. Galvanized edge metal (drip edge, nosing, etc.) should be rubbed with white vinegar or diluted muriatic acid (HCl) prior to priming and painting.

18. Paint your roof penetrations and flashings the same color as your fascia to improve aesthetics.

19. Do not install ventilation devices halfway up your roof. Install them at the very top. Installing roof vents between the intake and exhaust vents will cause a ventilation short circuit.

20. For proper ventilation, you should have an under-eave soffit ventilation and ridge ventilation installed at an area ratio of 1:1. In other words, for every square inch of soffit ventilation you should have a square inch of ridge ventilation.

21. All raggles should be a minimum of 1" deep.

22. If installing gutter, try to use straps instead of nails and furrels. Nails can pull out of the fascia if your gutter fills up due to plugged downspouts.

23. Never install wood decking directly over wood decking. Wood decking needs to be able to "breathe" on one side or else severe warping can occur.

24. You shouldn’t install most shingles in temperatures less than 40° F because shingles are brittle and can crack. However, there are shingles currently on the market that have been installed in 0° temperatures. These shingles are manufactured from SBS modified asphalt.

25. Install the drip edge material over the underlayment along the rakes and under the underlayment along the eaves.

26. Keep all oils, greases, and chemicals off of the roof.

27. The nails you use to install your hip and ridge cap should be approximately 1/2" longer than the nails used on the main sections of the building. This is because the hip/ridge nails generally have at least two extra layers of material to go through.

 SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR OVERLAYS (RE-COVER)

1. Inspect the bundles for moisture upon delivery. If the bundles are wet, have them returned and exchanged for new ones. If shingles are installed wet, then problems will occur later on such as blistering, mold, mildew, etc.; all of which expedite roof deterioration.

2. Remove any curled shingle tabs. You want the substrate of the new roof to be flat. Use a flat nosed shovel as it works the best.

3. Make sure the existing roof is dry before you shingle it. Trapped moisture such as dew will shorten the lifespan of your shingles.

4. Don't overlay a roof with algae problems unless you clean it first.

5. Before you start, cut the existing shingles back approximately ½" to 1" from the edge of the roof all the way around. If you install new drip edge, make sure that it covers the old drip edge material or else it will look ugly. Install a starter row along the eaves.

6. When overlaying an existing shingle roof, DO NOT install a layer of felt between the systems.

7. Tear off the hip and ridge cap before you start or else it will cause a large hump in the roof along the hips and ridges.

8. Nails should be long enough to penetrate the deck a minimum of ¾". 1 ¼" to 1 ½" nails are generally used in overlay applications.

9. The nails you use to install your hip and ridge cap should be approximately 1/2" longer than the nails used on the main sections of the building. This is because the hip/ridge nails generally have at least two extra layers of material to go through.

10. Install all new flashings. Remove the old flashings and fill in the void that it causes with shingle material.

11. Use four (4) nails per shingle minimum, six (6) nails per shingle in high wind areas.

12. Check with your local building department prior to overlaying the existing roof. Some cities/regions allow only two layers of roofing while others allow three layers.

B u i l t - U p  R o o f i n g

1. Store roll materials on end and up off of the roof. Keep material covered with a water-proof tarpaulin.

2. Install crickets on the upslope side of all large equipment to help with water removal.

3. Keep all oils, greases, and chemicals off of the roof.

4. Always replace all flashings.

5. Mechanically-fasten all base flashings at approximately eight inches (8") on center.

6. Keep the Equiviscous Temperature (EVT) where it’s supposed to be.

6. When using rigid board roof insulation, stagger and offset each joint the maximum amount possible. No joints should be closer than six inches (6").

7. When mopping polyisocyanurate insulation to a concrete roof deck, you should mop only four foot (4’) by four foot (4’) boards, not four foot (4’) by eight foot (8’).

8. Gravel stop should be mechanically fastened in two staggered rows of 6" (15.24 cm) on center.

9. Set your gravel stop in mastic and put mastic between each seam. Flash the gravel stop with TWO (2) plies. The first should extend 4" (10.16 cm) past the inside edge of the flashing and the second should extend 8" (20.32 cm) past the inside edge of the flashing.

10. Replace plywood decking in whole sheets only – don’t piece it. This will help maintain the structural integrity of the roof deck.

11. Consider a vapor retarder when the relalative humidity inside is 45% or more and the average January temperature is 40° F (4° C) or less.

• Vapor retarders should be completely sealed at all side and end laps, and at all roof perimeters and penetrations.

• All edges of all insulation installed on top of the vapor retarder should be sealed completely.

• Vapor retarders should have close to a zero (0) perm rating.

12. It is recommended that end laps be a minimum of 12 inches (30.5 cm).

13. Don't leave treated wood uncovered for too long a period of time because it can warp easily.

14. There should be around 30 pounds per square of bitumen between plies (15 kg per metric square).

15. If you are installing an aggregate surfacing, the flood coating should be around 60 pounds per square (30 kg per metric square).

C h a s i n g   L e a k s

THIS SECTION INCLUDES INFORMATION ON HOW TO LOOK FOR LEAKS ON FLAT / LOW-SLOPE AND STEEP ROOFS.

There can be many reasons for a leak. Leaks can be the result of poor roof system installation, mechanical damage such as dropped screwdrivers or knives, plugged roof drains, roofing material failure, HVAC problems; the list goes on. The source of a leak can be quite distant from where it actually shows up.

Let’s look at an example. Say there’s a hole in your asphalt shingles. The water gets in this hole, and then has to run along the top of the underlayment until it finds a hole there. Then it runs along the top of the decking until it reaches either a hole in the decking or a seam. Then it drops down in the attic and will run along the top of the ceiling until it reaches a hole or seam in the drywall, plaster, etc. The distance can be lengthened even further if you have more than one layer of roofing on your building or if you have a vapor retarder at the ceiling level.

Chasing a leak isn’t always as easy as it would appear to be. When trying to locate a leak, use the following guidelines to assist you. NOTE: whenever you see the words "the leak area," it refers to an area within a 10 foot (3 meter) diameter of the leak.

Flat or Low-Slope Roofs

• Inspect any roof drains near the leak area. If they are plugged or draining slowly, then there is a strong chance that they are the reason for the leaks. Drains are rarely waterproof if they are plugged. They are generally designed and constructed for water to flow in one direction only...down.

• Inspect any material seams in the area of the leak. Just because you see "tar" or adhesive sticking out under a lap, it doesn’t mean that the material is adhered properly. Take a flat blade about 2 inches (5 cm) long (like a pocketknife blade), and gently run it along under the lap. If it slides in more than 1 inch (2.5 cm), then the seam should be sealed. If it slides in for the length of the 2 inch blade, it’s a good suspect for a leak.

• Look carefully at all penetrations for signs of problems. Problems include holes in the metal flashings, shrunken pitch pan filler, deteriorated caulking, curled flashing flanges that are sticking up through the roof membrane, or any other visible defects.

• Look for blisters that have been punctured.

• Look closely at expansion joint seams. These are often faulty.

• Check for splits in the area. Do this by walking the area with your feet close together and taking many small steps, turning in all directions. If there is a split, you’ll see the roof separate between your feet.

• If the leak occurs near the edge of the building, check the edge metal. It can separate at the seams and tear the roof membrane in the process.

• Check under debris. A lot times, if debris has been sitting on a roof for a long period of time, then it can hold water which will expedite roof deterioration. Bird, rodent, and other vermin nests have been found under piles of debris on roofs.

• If you get a freak rain storm that dumps horrendous amounts of water on your roof in a short period of time, and all of a sudden you have half a dozen leaks where before there were none, don’t get overly excited. Most roofs are not designed or constructed to handle that much water all at once.

• If you look carefully, and find nothing on the roof, then check your attic or ceiling space. What is mistaken for a roof leak can sometimes be a problem with the plumbing, especially with commercial buildings because fire sprinkler lines usually run along the attic space. This is often identified by a leak occurring when it isn’t raining.

• Another problem that is frequently mistaken for a roof leak is a poorly designed roof-mounted HVAC unit. HVAC units can have faulty pans in them which will permit water to enter the building during a rain storm.

Steep Slope Roofs

• Look at all roof penetrations in the leak area closely for holes and / or damage.

• Look for "shiners." Shiners are nails that were not covered by the following course of roofing material. If left exposed too long, many nails will rust, leaving a hole and causing leaks.

• Look at the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls. It’s rare, but damaged mortar can cause leaks.

• If your building has a stucco facade, then cracks in the stucco, especially along the tops of walls, can be the source of leaks.

• Check to make sure that all drain details are functioning and that your gutter is not full of debris. If your edge details and gutter details are not done correctly, water can back up over the top of the fascia, run along the soffit, and down the inside of the wall where it enters your building.

• If you look carefully, and find nothing on the roof, then check your attic or ceiling space. What looks like a roof leak can be a problem with the plumbing, especially with commercial buildings because fire sprinkler lines usually run along the attic space. This is often identified by a leak occurring when it isn’t raining.

• Another problem frequently mistaken for a roof leak is a poorly designed roof-mounted HVAC unit. HVAC units can have faulty pans in them which can permit water to enter the building during a rain storm.

• Look for areas where there is a lot of debris such as leaves and branches that have gathered. Piles of debris can block water flow which can cause the water to back up under the roofing. This commonly occured behind chimneys and in valleys.

If you are calling a contractor to take care of your leaks. Here are some questions that he may want to ask you.

Q: Has anyone been on your roof doing work? An electrical contractor, HVAC mechanic, someone installing a heat pump or evaporative unit? And if so, were they anywhere near the leak area?

This question is important because people can often drop tools which can penetrate the roof and cause a leak.

Q: Does it leak only when there’s a wind-driven rain? Only when it snows?

A lot of times wind will drive rain up under overhangs where it can get into the building where it normally couldn’t. Or if there is a turbine vent that is frozen in place, the wind will drive the rain into it and cause a leak. Snow is tricky because it can cause ice dams which will allow water to back up under shingles, or it can be deep enough to go over the tops of curbs. When it starts melting, it starts leaking.

Q: How long after precipitation starts does the leaking begin? How long after the precipitation quits does the leak quit?

This will give the contractor an idea of how far the water has to travel before it actually shows up.

Q: Has anyone been up in your attic recently?

A lot of times when plumbers, electricians, HVAC mechanics, etc. are working in attics, they can knock a flashing loose, break a seam along a condensation line, or even accidentally put a hole in the roof system by puncturing it in the spaces between decking. None of this is purposefully done, it’s just something that happens because attic spaces are usually very cramped and difficult to work in.

A l g a e  D i s c o l o r a t i o n

Is a worldwide problem that is common throughout most of the United States and is very prevalent in the southeastern and northwestern parts of the country. This particular problem was encountered approximately 35 miles outside of Kansas City, Kansas. The discoloration that you see is the result of algae. The build-up of algae will expedite deterioration of the roofing materials and can also raise energy costs. If the roof on a building is white it will help reflect the sun's rays and keep the interior of the building cooler. Roofs whose color is darkened by algae will absorb the sun's rays which can heat the interior and raise energy costs.

There are several ways to alleviate this problem. One is to hose down the roof with diluted bleach or chlorine. Bleach and chlorine are very effective but they also kill all the surrounding vegetation, cause a discomforting odor and upset the environmentalists. Another way is to install some algae-resistant shingles. But sometimes roofs that look bad aren't ready for replacement.

There are two good ways to solve the problem. Take a look at the following picture. Notice below each penetration the roof is white like it’s supposed to be. This is because when rain runs off of zinc, it cleans the algae off of the shingles. Zinc strips installed along both sides of the ridge will eventually clean the algae from the roof.

Another good way is to apply environmentally friendly chemical compounds for immediate results.